
There’s no denying that in the realm of skincare ingredients, retinoids are unrivaled. They’re the cream of the crop (pun intended), prized by dermatologists for their myriad skin benefits.
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This group of vitamin A derivatives, which includes over-the-counter retinols, can do just about anything.
“They reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen and elastin production, promote shedding of skin surface cells for brighter,
more even skin tone, and reduce unwanted pigmentation by inhibiting an enzyme required for melanin production,” says dermatologist Dr. Robin Gmyrek.
Retinoids are also prized by dermatologists for treating acne because they keep pores clear and have anti-inflammatory properties.
Plus, they have a long and successful track record: “What makes retinoids so great is that they’ve been extensively studied,” Gmyrek adds.
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However, for some people, all that goodness can also come with some serious badness.
Retinoids are known for their nasty potential side effects, such as redness, dryness, and systemic irritation—not to mention that they shouldn’t be used by pregnant or breastfeeding women due to the risk of birth defects, Gmyrek explains.
The good news is, there are alternatives: natural retinol alternatives. (FYI: Since the word “natural” doesn’t have a set definition, we’re using it in this context to refer primarily to plant-based ingredients.)
Read on to learn about seven great natural retinol alternatives—straight from Gmyrek, cosmetic ingredient expert Defne Arikan, and cosmetic chemist Yehiel Amouyal.
01 Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is “probably the best-known, most researched alternative that has the most similar effects to retinol,” Arikan says.
It’s extracted from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant, and while it’s not a vitamin A derivative, it works like retinol to stimulate collagen and elastin production, Gmyrek says. (It’s also high in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties, she adds.)
The biggest advantage of bakuchiol over retinol? It’s better for sensitive skin. In fact, in a head-to-head comparison study, both ingredients were shown to improve wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and skin firmness, but bakuchiol was better tolerated.
2 Since it’s not a vitamin A derivative, it can also be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women, Gmyrek says.
02 Rosehip Oil
Rosehip oil contains small amounts of retinoic acid, Gmyrek says. He notes that retinol must first be converted into retinoic acid in the skin before it can work.
As a result, “it’s very effective for skin regeneration, boosting collagen production, and restoring radiance to dull complexions,” Arikan says.
While no studies have compared rosehip oil to retinol, Gmyrek says that since rosehip oil is rich in fatty acids that are essential for a healthy skin barrier, it may also help improve visible signs of aging by preventing moisture loss.
03 Rambutan
There’s a lot of information floating around the internet comparing the tropical fruit rambutan to retinol. However, Gmyrek notes that there’s no scientific evidence to support improved collagen or elastin production.
(Only one study in mice and one small, industry-sponsored study yielded no significant results.) Still, rambutan may have powerful anti-aging effects on the skin due to its high antioxidant content. “
Rambutan contains a variety of antioxidants that can neutralize free radicals, protect the skin from oxidative damage, and reduce inflammation and the breakdown of collagen and elastic tissue, thereby slowing skin aging,” Gmyrek explains.
04 Carrot Seed Oil
Carrot seed oil, extracted from the seeds of wild carrots, is high in beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A that studies show can support cell regeneration, Amouyal says.
Plus, it’s rich in antioxidants (vitamins C and E and vitamin A, which converts to retinol in the skin), Gmyrek says. A recent study confirmed the effectiveness of sea buckthorn oil for skin rejuvenation, she adds. 3
05 Sea Buckthorn Oil
“Sea buckthorn pulp is a nutrient concentrate that’s rich in vitamins, minerals, and nutrients,” Amouyal says.
Sea buckthorn oil is often used in skin care, she explains, primarily because of its high concentration of antioxidants, including carotene, vitamins E and C, and flavonoids.
It’s also rich in essential fatty acids, making it an extremely nourishing ingredient. While the exact mechanism of action is unclear, some studies suggest that sea buckthorn oil can boost collagen production and support wound healing, Gmyrek emphasizes. 4
06 Azelaic acid
“Azelaic acid is found naturally in grains like wheat, barley, and rye, and can also be produced by the yeast Malassezia furfur that lives on our skin and is part of our normal skin flora,” Gmyrek explains.
While no studies have directly compared it to retinol, the two ingredients have a significant overlap in their benefits. For example, azelaic acid has also been shown to be an active ingredient in the fight against acne:
“It kills bacteria that infect pores, relieves inflammation and redness, and exfoliates the skin, reducing the production of keratin, a natural substance that can cause pores to become clogged,” Gmyrek says.
Additionally, it has been shown to reduce pigment cells, which is why it’s used to treat melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, she adds.
07 Niacinamide
This active ingredient is a little different than the others on this list because it’s not a plant-based ingredient, but rather a form of vitamin B3.
Niacinamide has many of the same benefits as retinol, Gmyrek says, namely reducing inflammation, increasing collagen production, treating acne, and reducing unwanted or excessive hyperpigmentation.
The difference is hydration: Retinol can dry out the skin, while niacinamide helps retain the skin’s moisture levels, Amouyal says. That’s why it’s suitable for all skin types and is sometimes even used in combination with retinol in certain formulas, he adds.
“In my clinical experience, niacinamide has many similar effects to retinol and is recommended for patients with very sensitive skin,” Gmyrek says, but adds that its effects aren’t as impressive as retinol’s.